Italy (local)

Well it was so good, we just had to do it again, and catch some of the places we missed (actually, it's Tuscany as well, but it didn't rhyme). Same format as before, route maps, daily reports, planning info, packing lists etc. Another brilliant time, and we made some great friends.

The road from Montepulciano to Pienza drops steeply outside the medieval walls, and I braked cautiously on the sharp turns after coming out through the dimness of the Porta di Grassi into the early morning sun. After almost two weeks of bike touring in Tuscany I had learned to expect these long descents each morning from the medieval towns that guard the highest hills -- and also to expect the equally long, grinding climbs up to them each evening. At first looking down on the honey-colored stones of the Renaissance church of San Biagio, the road wound all the way around it, then below it, before swinging out into the magnificent valley.

It was early morning in May, 1999, and we four NBW riders had the road to ourselves. Siena lay in sunny haze somewhere to the north, and to the south were rolling, poppy-covered fields, scattered olive groves and grape vines, topped by the occasional farmhouse. The descent was enticingly fast and the road was smooth, but I braked to look back up at the church and Montepulciano's jumble of red-tiled roofs and towers above, trying to freeze the memory. Surely, centuries before me this same sight greeted weary pilgrims trudging up from the Monte Amiata hills, or, more likely, soldiers sent from Siena to besiege the town and take it from the Florentines (both cities apparently captured and recaptured poor Montepulciano for hundreds of years, it's a wonder there's anything left). I could empathize with both pilgrim and soldier, having peered up through sweat-stung eyes at many a Tuscan hill town as I pedaled doggedly upwards.

When my wife, Jeannie, and I first bicycled Tuscany in 1995, we found the combination of the culture, the history, the food & wine, and most importantly the friendliness of the people made us eager to return. So, for our 25th wedding anniversary we made our plans to return to Italy for a month.

As we have cycled through many beautiful, interesting, curious, and friendly places, we have often remarked that someday we would like to visit a place and stay long enough to feel more of a pulse of the life than we might if we were only there for a day or two. This trip to Italy we wanted ``to be'' in Italy - essere in italia. We wanted to stay in one place for at least two weeks, to learn the bus schedule, to have to remember when the bakery was open, to learn to enjoy the differences in the pace of life and not just pass through as tourists.

Abbiamo visto o piú spesso immaginato tra le nuvole i maggiori massicci alpini. Abbiamo visto nascere l'Oglio, l'Adda, l'Inn, il Reno, la Reuss, l'Aare, il Rodano, il Ticino. Non un solo giorno è mancata la pioggia, non un solo giorno è mancato il sole. Dal passamontagna al costume da bagno, niente è rimasto inutilizzato. Va da sè che, se anche il racconto fosse riuscito noioso, il giro non lo è stato. I km sono stati 1130 km, circa 28500 metri di salita, per una pendenza media del 5 per cento. Sedici valichi: Ampola, Giogo di Bala - Croce Dominii, Gavia, Alpisella, Forcola di Livigno, Bernina, Albula, Oberalp, Susten, Grimsel, Furka, Gottardo, Nufenen, Folungo, Bocchetta di Sessera, Colma. Sei cime: San Matteo m 3678, Piz Blaisun 3210 metri, Gross Muttenhorn m 3099, monte Zeda 2156 metri, Rocciamelone 3538 metri, Lera 3358 metri. Le cime piú belle: Zeda e Rocciamelone. I tratti di percorso da non perdere assolutamente: la traversata dal lago d'Idro a Croce Dominii; il Passo Susten; la panoramica sopra il Lago Maggiore.

Visto dal lato atletico puo' sembrare una cosa non eccezionale attraversare l'Italia da sud a nord in bicicletta, basta seguire la costa essere ben allenati avere bici da corsa ultraleggere un buono staff al seguito (ammiraglia massaggiatori meccanici) e un buon albergo con tutti i comfort per rilassarsi tra una tappa e l'altra! Purtroppo noi non avevamo nulla di tutto cio'; noi non eravamo per niente allenati a pedalare, semmai allenati a portare vassoi, con alle spalle una stagioone turistica appena conclusa che certo non ci aveva lasciato in ottima forma. Non volevamo assolutamente costeggiare il mare ma assaporare le salite che tanto facevano sudare i nostri beniamini al ``giro''. Al posto delle bici da corsa ultraleggere avevamo i nostri ``normali'' rampichini ancora piu' appesantiti da piu' di 35kg. di bagagli e atrezzi. Dormivamo nella prima pensione che trovavamo all'imbrunire, eravamo addirittura dotati di sacco a pelo. I massaggi ci avrebbero fatto molto comodo ma ancor di piu' ci mancava l'ammiraglia per borracce viveri e bagagli. Un sogno sarebbe stato poi un meccanico che ci avesse riparato le forature, visto che abbiamo bucato in tutto 29 volte!

An account of a cycle tour of Tuscany and Umbria in May 1998. A day by day blow of the places we visited, how we got there (and how we didn't), pretty stuff like pictures we took, and some possibly useful stuff like packing lists etc.

A report of the ``Nove Colli''. I've come to Cesenatico, hometown of Marco Pantani, to ride the Nove Colli (nine hills) Grand Fondo, a 205 km long death ride in the hills on the eastern side of Italy near Rimini.

So what is Nove Colli? Nine major climbs plus other not so horrible climbing together totaling 89 km and 3220 metres of climbing., Also 34 km of flat bits and the fun part - 77 km of discesa. There is an option of doing a short course of 130 km with only 4 nasty climbs, and 1335 metres of climbing.

The riders have thinned out a lot by now and occasionally I am by myself and can occasionally see no one else. Pass through Ponte Uso again and my right leg is threatening to cramp full stop instead of the twinges I am having. The road undulates after Ponte Uso and this is actually a relief after a succession of grinding climbs followed by speedy descents. I can try and appreciate the countryside while I try and keep my leg from cramping.

Il percorso si snoda su circa 280 km con dislivelli modesti e abbordabili anche con la bicicletta discretamente carica, è un piccolo viaggio che consiglio anche come preparazione a raid più impegnativi. Io sono partita da Sondrio, la mia città, e ho affrontato il giro del lago in senso orario toccando Lecco, Bellagio, Como e poi di nuovo Sondrio.

la strada fino a Bellagio è veramente entusiasmante, corro veloce sulle sponde rocciose che si immergono nelle acque del lago liscio come olio, attraverso i tranquilli abitati di Onno e Vassena, in località Rigona la strada comincia a salire e corre più alta sul lago, da Regatola in rapida discesa raggiungo Bellagio dove mi fermo alcune ore, per visitare il paese, rifocillarmi e riposare all'ombra dei platani della Punta Spartivento.

From the pages of Becana. An 840km trip in August 1997. River Po is the longest in Italy. This is the nicely organized and illustrated report of a fascinating tour through Pianura Padana.

[I crossed] for the first time in my life some of the famous Dolomiti passes: in the end [...] I went to 13 different passes. [...] [F]rom Canazei the route is steep at once. (I didn't expect so much: I think I've been deceived by images of 1996 Giro when Zaina climbed up very easily.)

In early May of 1997 I bicycled from Brindisi to Pompei, and after three days [among] the ruins, I bicycled to Napoli (25km) and took the train to Roma. [...] I [...] began making my way north along the west side of the Villa Borghese, a large, richly wooded park in north central Rome. I rode on park roads and paths as well as main roads and side streets.

Rome traffic was busy, fast and assertive (I wouldn't call it aggressive). The simplest way to explain how to ride in Rome traffic is - follow and mimic the Vespa riders. It is easy to keep up with traffic. As you approach a red light do whatever it takes to get to the front of the line - with all the motorized Vespas. That includes crossing the double yellow line, or riding right on it, in order to pass everyone and get to the front. When the light turns green, sprint across the intersection and fade over to the right so the cars and other traffic can pass you. I never once felt threatened, got honked at, or even noticed an ounce of hostility. It's just fast and assertive. Rome drivers will NOT hit you.

A group of five, three boys and two girls, went to Sicily in the third week of March 97. We all love cycling but for three of us it was the first week-long trip. We brought our mountain bikes, but did only two off-road stretches. [...] What makes Sicily an excellent place to cycle is the quality of the food. And in fact you'll read about ice-cream, sesame-filled bread, ricotta-filled cakes, spaghetti with sardines and bread-crumbs, pasta with anchovies and melanzane, cassata and cannoli, almond pastries, olives bread... but cyclists do need prime fuel after all!

Coraggioso, intoned the bar-keep as he pressed two steins of beer to a couple of very hot American cyclists escaping the gaudy sun over the Lombardy plain. It was a word (courageous) we heard often on our three-week bicycle jaunt from the French- Italian border on the Riviera to Venice on the Adriatic.

This website is a diary of a first attempt at cycle touring in Italy (spring 2000) which included visits to 5 top Serie A football games on route between Rome and Milan. Very much inspired by reading other peoples bike tours [...] I had soon purchased my bike and panniers and had my maps out planning my first cycle tour which would combine my two main interests of football and cycling.

My trip began watching the Rome derby and then ended in Milan to see Inter Milan play Juventus in the derby of Italy. Cycling nearly 800km inbetween these two cities I managed to take in the hills of Tuscany, Pisa, the Ligure coastline, Lake Garda and Lake Como while also visiting 3 other top football games watching the teams of Juventus, Palma, AC Milan and Fiorentina.

Lucia comes from Brazil to have a taste of cycling, both on-road and off-road, in Italy. She first visits Lake Garda, one of the great areas for mountain biking in Trentino, very popular with German bikers, and rides among others one of the Tremalzo trails. She then moves to Tuscany, and visits places like San Gimignano, Siena, and Volterra. After an intense cycling day, she treats herself quite rightly to the delights of Tuscan cuisine... In August 1997 Lucia added sections on the Amalfitan Coast and Sardinia.

Our tour started at the Venezia airport. Naturally the first destination was Venice downtown. It is somewhat hard to find the two-kilometer bridge that connects old Venice with Mestre, we had to use some very congested freeway-like bridges and roads. In Venice, no bicycles or cars are allowed (or practical), the road ends at Piazzale Roma. To park the bicycles, make a U-turn when reaching the piazza and ride down a steep driveway just before the first of the two small bridges, right across from the parking garage building. Then walk back to the piazza and take the vaporetto (shuttle boat) #82 north (south is much more scenic but requires switching boats at San Marco) until the Zitelle station, which is one block south of a very pleasant youth hostel.

This 1996 trip through Italy was our second 1,000 mile bicycle tour. Our first 1,000 mile cycling trip was in Ireland the summer before. Italy proved to be a delightful challenge. We accomplished one goal, which was to crack the myth that Southern Italy was not a good place to travel, especially by bicycle, something we repeatedly heard in California. Our second goal was more nebulous. We knew we would ride 1,000 miles, but we weren't positive which route we would take. As you will see, the route evolved as we went along. Our experiences were all positive, and the people we met were extremely helpful and hospitable. One important feature of our trip was that I took the time to learn some basic Italian (including grammar) beyond phrasebook dialogue. It made all the difference in the world, because people knew we were trying to speak their language and they appreciated and respected that very much.

Von Bozen nach La Spezia auf der Straße.

A report of a 50/100/200km event (pick your own) in the Italian Dolomites, by Sheila Simpson. Sheila is Editor of Arrivee, the magazine of Audax UK, the Long Distance Cyclists' Association in the UK.

Milosz describes six itineraries in this prime cycling territory. The text is accompanied (off-line, with inline thumbnails) by some gorgeous pictures.

A ride from Chioggia to Venice and beyond, along the tiny strip of land that separates the sea from the Laguna. A bicycle ride is one of the best ways to exprience this magical terrain...

Mt. Marmolada is in the central Alps. Before I first went there I had this mental image of snow-capped peaks and vertical cliffs that could not possibly allow any reasonable bicycle riding. I found this is wrong, it's in fact fairly easy - if exhausting - to ride in the Alps because all the roads and trails avoid the really steep mountains and remain in the valleys and lower and less steep mountains. Riding in the Alps means rarely riding on either level or really steep roads, 4 or 5% is typical but it can reach 10% or more in places. Roads usually wind their way up or down in serpentines. I live in Berlin, which has only very minor hills, and I am a poor climber, but I found that I can manage a pass or two a day in the Alps without too many problems. The reward of the trouble is awesome scenery.

From Arrivèe On-Line, Audax UK's quarterly magazine.

A certain Frenchman, Georges Rossini of Thonon on Lake Geneva, has set up four testing Alpine routes, or 'Raids':

• Randonnee Alpine - Thonon to Antibes, 740km and 43 cols through the French Alps.
• Randonnee Alpine - Thonon to Trieste, 1180km and 41 cols through the Swiss and Italian Alps and Dolomites.
• Randonnee Prealpine - Thonon to Antibes, 894km and 47 cols through the French Alps.
• Randonnee Prealpine - Thonon to Venice, 1209km and 69 cols through the Italian Alps and Lakes.

Most of the places we stayed were walled medieval towns, each with histories dating back centuries, and each with its own identity and flavor. One such city was Volterra. Perched on a high plateau, Volterra has been occupied since prehistoric times because of its strategic location. [...] The fields of colorful spring wildflowers, flowed up to the vineyards, which were just starting to spread their new spring growth across the hills, while roves of olive trees added their own unique presence to the landscape. Tall, stately spires of Italian cypress appeared to march across every distant ridge, usually leading to a small farm or a large villa. As we finally entered the ancient gates of the city, we collapsed in the shadows on a cool stone bench.

There are two major roads out of Riva, towards Monte Brione to the east, and south towards Monte Tremalzo and others. Monte Brione is good for short but difficult tours; this hill is roughly elliptic, with the west side nearly on level with the lake and the east end sloping up and then dropping sharply. It looks like a large cylinder buried at an angle. There is a Worldcup trail along the steep east edge and plenty of single trails. A road leads up and ends at a large bunker near the top. Monte Brione was crowded with mountainbikers when we were there, it has terrain for everybody.

Tour 30 July 1991 from 7:30 to 21:00. Breno - Edolo - Passo Tonale - Dimaro - Campo Carlo Magno - Lodrone - Riccomassimmo - Bagolino - Passo Croce Domini - Breno, Km 213.

Yes, we do have the Alps in Italy. But the Appennino has its own fascination, and nothing better than this report can bring it out.

Two days: Green meadows and scattered masi (wooden small houses for the storage of hay) is the characteristic landscape of Comelico valley; the road continues along the Piave river (mild climb) up to Salafossa mines (closed) and a tunnel puts us on the climb to Sappada. This reach of road is excavated on the rocky side of the valley which here is a very narrow gorge and there is the impressive sight of the Orrido Acquatona in which the river Piave flows on the bottom of the gorge (here very deep and narrow).

Includes Rome-Venice, Amalfi Coast (including a video clip), Genoa-Pisa-Florence, Aosta Valley.

Everything you have ever heard about bicycling in Italy is true. The weather, terrain, roads, and cities are all perfectly suited for bike touring.

For those of you who're planning to go to Italy by bike and specifically to cross Lombardia region near Como's lake, you can't miss such a place: there are many types of reason that can get you to go there.

You know, this is an ascent that from both sides has the last part quite demanding although short: a good test to evaluate your ``grimpeur'' attitude. At the top look at right side of Como's Lake and at the two mountains named Grigne in front of you.

Even if you're not catholic, do enter the little church (free entrance) : it's also a cycling museum. It's up to you saying a prayer before starting the visit as a sign inside suggests. You'll find here the originals used by Bartali, Coppi, Merckx: looking at the Merckx one, see the gear he used ... There's also the bicycle Moser used in Mexico City in 1984 to improve hour record and last, sadly, the Fabio Casartelli's bicycle used in Tour 1995 (Fabio born not so far from here). Again there's a lot of original maillot (pink , yellow, rainbow) belonging to all time champions. Every year on december 24 there's a religious meeting celebrating great champions that are no more here in this world.

For three years ``Lombardia 's Tour'' has been choosen to be the last race of World Cup and even if its path has been changed, it always includes Ghisallo: take the opportunity to ride along a piece of one most popular Italian cyling races.

La Flaminia Minor, ancora oggi oggetto di studio, fu costruita dalle truppe del console romano Gaio Flaminio nel 187 a.C., due anni dopo la fondazione di Bologna avvenuta nel 189 a.C. Questa strada aveva il ruolo importante di unire le aree a nord dell'appennino con quelle a sud, partendo da Claterna (odierna Maggio, frazione di Ozzano) fino ad arrivare ad Arezzo.

Alberto has ``read all the books'' and writes beautifully (alas, in Italian). This travel story from the Alps in the North-East, West across the Alps, and then South to the Mediterranean on the coast of Tuscany, is a must.

A tour of the Alps - 2190 km and nearly 50km gain in 16 days.

Now accompanied by a biggish Photo Album.

Firenze - Siena - Montepulciano - Assisi - Gubbio - Urbino - Rimini. Km.: 550 - Giorni: 6 - Periodo: Maggio.

Rick and Monica's plans are stymied by awful weather at first. But they make up for this with a great tour of Tuscany, including San Gimignano, Pisa, and then Trentino and Lombardia. Very nicely illustrated.

San Gimignano is the most striking of the walled cities. It has a skyline of towers built centuries ago that has earned the nickname of ``the Manhattan of Italy''. The town can be seen for miles and miles away and is truly a ``not to be missed'' site. Our maps paid off as we cycled over the seldom used back roads throughout the Tuscan region. We passed hundreds of manicured vineyards. We rode by ancient castles, olive groves and fields ablaze with sunflowers. We enjoyed the hills, the scenic narrow roads and the warmth of the Italian sun. At last the weather had improved!